Solo in Sacred Sedona

Spiritual Vortexes, a Secret Subway, and Serene Sunrises

Homebase: Sedona

Airport: Phoenix

Rental Car: Budget

Accommodations: Penrose Bed & Breakfast

THE GEOGRAPHY

Sedona is a sacred space with terrain like Utah… but more red. The ancient rocks and vast canyons hold a rich history of the Navajo Nation and is a place where many go to seek enlightenment and peace. If open to the spiritual calling, one can feel the connection to the earth and pull of nature. The trails are plentiful, the landscape richly layered, and the climbs well worth the views.

ITINERARY

Day One: Sugarloaf Mountain via Teacup Trail, Devil’s Bridge via Chuckwagon Trail

Sugarloaf Mountain via Teacup Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: +/- 2 miles

Type: Out and Back

If looking for an expansive sunrise hike without the crowds, add Sugarloaf Mountain to your trekking agenda! This was a great introduction to Sedona and the perfect way to start my first three-day hiking adventure. While most blogs I read started at the Sugarloaf Trailhead, I opted to begin at the Teacup Trailhead, which offers a small parking lot within a residential area.

Teacup Trail is incredibly easy thanks to its soft sand floor and flat path. While you do get the sense of walking in the backyard of nearby homes, there is an epic view of Chimney Rock and massive rock walls swirled with tones of tawny, beige, and sanguine. There are several forks on this trail, most of which are well-marked, but having an offline source, like All Trails, will be helpful on this adventure.

The work really starts when you reach the base of Sugarloaf Mountain. There is a clearly defined path, but you will notice other man-made trails that make for a direct beeline to the summit. I opted to stay on path, which inclines gently and slopes around about one-third of the mountainside. About halfway up, the incline sharpens drastically, and the small pebbles transform into large jutting boulders. Sandy floor gives way to rocks so, if walking at dawn, do not forget to bring a headlamp.

Hiking during the winter months in Sedona is unpredictable. The nights and mornings are beyond chilly (low thirty’s), and the temperatures rise to dry and sunny mid-50’s by afternoon. I recommend wearing lots of smart layers that can easily be packed and unpacked throughout the day.

In January, the sun rises at about 7:35 am. I underestimated the time steep climb to Sugarloaf Mountain’s summit and missed the peak moment. However, having the chance to take a moment with only a few other people across the broad plateau while watching the rays crest over russet-hued peaks was so magical. The air was still and not a word was spoken as strangers collectively connected and sat mesmerized by an old and untouched beauty. It was the perfect way to begin 2024.

Devil’s Bridge via Chuck Wagon Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 5.7 miles

Type: Out and Back

Devil’s Bridge is up there with Grand Cathedral and Antelope Canyon in terms of must-do Insta-worthy hikes. It is a well populated landmark so be prepared to wait patiently in line for your infamous picture and share narrow paths with fellow hikers.

There are several ways to reach Devil’s Bridge, with the two easiest being via Dry Creek Road and Chuck Wagon Trail. Avoid Dry Creek Road as you will share this trail with Jeep and buggy tours, which equates to a lot of noise, limited views, and tons of dust.

There is a very limited parking lot at Chuck Wagon Trailhead, which usually fills up by 8 am. Do not worry though – Sedona offers complimentary shuttle service to various trailheads via Sedona Suttle. There are two buses that will take you to and from Devil’s Bridge: #11 and #12. Download the app for real-time information and the trailhead guide map.

Chuck Wagon Trail offers 360-degree views of stunning vistas and expansive terrain dotted with cacti, agave, alligator juniper, and Arizona cypress. Relatively flat, you can take your time meandering on this quiet trail without the chaos of crowds. Be sure to have sun protection as there is not a ton of shade and very few comfortable resting spots. All Trails will serve you well here as this path has various forks that look very similar.

You will know you have reached the beginning of Devil’s Bridge Trail when Chuck Wagon intersects with Dry Creek Road Trail. Cross over and begin the climb!

Devil’s Bridge is a challenging route that is incredibly rocky and steep. The path grows more and more narrow as you get closer and higher. It also grows more congested. I was shocked (and displeased) by how busy this trail was and do not think I have yet to be on a busier one. Because it was not my first hike of the day, it was very late morning, so I suggest a super early start time if you want to avoid the crowd. However, everyone was incredibly patient and kind, avoiding blocking prime photo areas and giving others a chance for the perfect shot.

Devil’s Bridge is not technically a bridge, as it does not connect two ends, but more of an arch carved naturally over hundreds of years. This incredible landmark is the largest natural sandstone arch in the Sedona area and has sweeping views (and sheer drops) of stunning vistas. Formed by wind and weather erosion, this towering bridge is not for the faint of heart but quite wide and sturdy once viewed up close. Formed of Supai sandstone, the arch is layered in rich reds with a flat plateau straight across.

Despite the crowds, I highly encourage you to conquer this hike and dance with the Devil!

Day Two: Subway Cave via Boynton Canyon Trail, Mescal Mountain, Birthing Cave via Long Canyon

Subway Cave via Boynton Canyon Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 7.2 miles (+/- 4 miles to Subway Cave turnoff)

Type: Out and Back

Do not, I repeat, do not leave Sedona without discovering the magic at Subway Cave. This was hands-down my favorite trail of the trip and a lot easier to find than I initially thought. It was thanks to fellow hiking blogs, a particular alligator tree, and my All Trails that I was able to successfully navigate to this unmarked site, so I am going to pass along guidance with hopes that others will have a chance to experience it.

Boynton Canyon is a stunning trek through Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness and is only slightly marred by the backend but limited views of Enchantment Resort. Aside from this, it is a breathtaking hike with countless views, plenty of shade, and TWO vortex sites.

The Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness was originally home to the Southern Sinagua between 1150 to 1300 CE. It is now a 47,195-acre wilderness area within Coconino National Forest that features high mesas and a more rugged and isolated ambiance.

How is “Wilderness” different from “National Forest”? While both are protected spaces meant for the retention of history and enjoyment via recreation, “Wilderness” takes it one step further in granting space for nature to do its thing. This means that the trails may have more obstacles due to wind, water and erosion, and the natural overgrowth of plants is not manipulated for sake of pedestrian traffic. While the paths were clear, I noticed the difference almost immediately not just visually but emotionally.

I do not know what I enjoyed more on this hike: the views or the solitude. Vastly different from Devil’s Bridge, Boynton Canyon Trail is intensely quiet and the pull to nature is strong. Towering pinnacles of rust, salmon and chestnut loomed over rugged Alligator Junipers and bushy Cypress trees. The rock formations were unreal here and one could easily imagine the cave dwellings inhabited by Indigenous peoples.

As I ventured deeper into the trail and forested area, I knew to keep an eye out for a specific tree that serves as the turn off landmark to Subway Cave. While you are surrounded by Alligator trees, named for their gator skin-like trunks, there is one massive tree that you want to keep an eye out for. What makes this tree different is the curved trunk and visible roots protruding from the ground.

When you have reached this tree (give or take four miles), stop and be incredibly observant of your surroundings. You will notice a treaded path directly across from the tree that looks as if it intersected with a brook or stream at some point. This is the path that will lead you directly to Subway Cave.

While it is only about one quarter of a mile, it is not maintained and overgrown in areas. This is where I most definitely encourage using your All Trails because, while it is not an official “trail’ on the app, it is visible on the Boynton Canyon Trail map and will be helpful getting you to and from Subway Cave.

I was lucky to be met by a family of Javelinas about halfway through, grazing their way through breakfast. Javelinas look very much like wild boar but smaller and less aggressive. Be ready to share Coconino with them and respect their space.

You will not necessarily know you have reached Subway Cave unless you know to look for a deep canyon slot with a long slab of smooth rock cascading down the middle. The trickiest part of climbing your way up this giant stone, which is slippery and lacks footholds. Take your time and be prepared to be on all fours all the way to the top. Once you reach the end of this massive slide, turn around and get ready to be floored by the view.

For me, it felt like Alice in Wonderland. I felt like a tiny speck of a being staring straight into a massive keyhole. Cocooned by a natural hollowed out space, the walls stretch before you making you feel like you are standing in a subway tunnel. Straight ahead is a bright view, just like at the end of a tunnel, of sweeping canyons in rich earthy colors. It is one of my favorite views to-date.

Once you have had your fill of Subway Cave, be courageous and scale the curved wall on the right, which leads you to even more amazing views, hollowed out caves, and Indigenous ruins, likely dwellings by the shape and construction. Take your time exploring this sacred place, find a remote and comfortable spot, and just be – for longer than just a moment.

Mescal Mountain

Hiking Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: 6 miles

Type: Out and Back

I did not hike the full length of this trail but reached the intersection from Boynton Canyon and trekked up the mountain side. Mescal Mountain was an ideal spot for a lunch break, with its expansive valley views and serene ambience. If you take up the challenge of both these hikes in one day, I highly recommend it.

Birthing Cave via Long Canyon Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 1.9 miles

Type: Out and Back

It is believed that for generations this cave was used by women from various tribes in the region, including the Hopi and the Yavapai. Women would go into the cave during childbirth where they would receive the support and guidance of other women in their tribe. Once ready, the women would climb into the womb, a smaller carved out space within the cave, to give bring forth life.

Reading a bit about the history of the Birthing Cave gave me a different perspective while hiking it.

Though short, there is a very steep and narrow climb to the opening of the massive cave (which also really looks like a vulva), and an even more precarious climb into the womb. The stone walls have been curved and smoothed by weather and time, making it slippery within the cave walls. While there are stunning views from throughout inside the cave, the best one is from the womb itself, where you can fully view the semi-symmetrical opening and beautiful terrain beyond it.

Cathedral Rock

Hiking Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging

Distance: 1.2 miles

Type: Out and Back

Cathedral Rock is one of Sedona’s most beloved landmarks and is believed to be one of the stronger vortex sites in the area. The natural sandstone butte stands tall towards the heavens and is deceiving to the climber’s eye upon initial ascent. While not a long hike, the inclines and broad sloping rock makes for a challenging and rather precarious trek up to the final summit. But the views that await you on the other side are more than worth the potential slips and upper body strength it takes to get there.

The trailhead houses a very tiny parking lot that closes off quite early due to crowds so using the Sedona Shuttle is your best bet. Be prepared for larger crowds any time of the day as this site is a popular tourist destination and offers incredible views from sunrise to sunset.

There is no set footpath on the massive boulders piled on top of and around each other. Pick a point and get ready for a steady climb with comfortable plateau points and amazing vista views.

Cathedral Rock is naturally carved from the coastal sand dunes near the ancient Pedregosa Sea. If you pay close attention, you can see the ripple marks along the lower part of the trail. Legend has it that if you look straight through the middle of Cathedral Rock, you can see the first man and woman standing back-to-back. It is one of the most photographed sites in Arizona and believed to house feminine energy.

I was so amazed by the views on my ascent and kept stopping to turn around and simply stare in awe. Give yourself plenty of time to spend in this sacred place. It was one of the few hikes I have ever done where I felt totally at ease and relaxed. There was no rush to the top nor worry about losing daylight. I felt completely connected and present; hardly even aware of the crowds around me.

While the scenery during the climb was spectacular, nothing prepared me for what I would see on the other side at summit. Imagine coming upon a house, simple in color and basic in form. A pretty house deserving of a second glance. Then you walk into the house and are completely taken aback by the opulence, the grand halls and the rich fabrics. The magnificent rooms and the bold décor. This is what it was like when I reached the top of Cathedral Rock and saw what was on the other side. The view instantly took my breath away.

Take your time at Cathedral Rock. Savor the pull of this towering rock formation. Open yourself up to its energy and commit yourself to be fully present. It truly is a magical place that deserves your utmost attention.

Day Three: Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon

Antelope Canyon can only be experienced by tour and is close to three hours away from Sedona. I booked a full day tour through Viator that included transportation to and from my hotel, lunch, a stop at Cameron Trading Post and Horseshoe Bend, and the Antelope Canyon tour with Chief Tsosie.

You can book the tour HERE

My tour guide picked me up at 6 am and I joined six other people for a long and fun-filled day of sightseeing. The drive is rather scenic, and our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable about the history of Sedona and the several tribes that have inhabited the land for centuries. His conversation really helped to make the drive easier and time go by faster.

Our first stop was the Cameron Trading Post, which sells mostly Native-made goods and foods. You will get about 30 minutes of shopping and stretching time here before heading to Horseshoe Bend. Everyone in the group received a coupon and the pricing for items was very reasonable.

Horseshoe Bend, though incredible to see in person, is a big tourist trap. When we pulled in, it was only mid-morning and there were already hordes of people following the path down to the landmark site. This tour allots about 40 minutes of viewing, which I feel is more than enough as there is no excessive climbing nor descents here. While impressed with the almost perfect natural “U” shape and grand depths of Horseshoe Bend, I think once was enough for me to visit this place.

After leaving Horseshoe Bend and grabbing a hearty lunch at a local restaurant, we headed to Chief Tsosie Trading Post, where we boarded another mini-bus and headed to Antelope Canyon.

The Navajo believe that Antelope Canyon was formed to connect nature with the spirit world. Legend has it that the unique rock walls, narrow passageways, and the light that filters through the slots were all created by the Holy People. The Navajo believe that this place is where the spirit world and physical world intersect, and that the canyon holds great power that should be respected and honored.

It is hard not to be mesmerized by the beauty within Antelope Canyon. As soon as you enter through the tall yet narrow entryway, you are enveloped by smooth winding walls of cold sandstone that dip and curve down a slim path dimly lit by the natural light shining down from up above. The coral walls are reminiscent of Van Gogh’s Starry Night – a wall of swirling colors that almost hypnotize you.

Watch your step, as you will be looking up so much that you may just run into a jutting wall or low turn. Listen to the stories of your guide, who will point out unique rock formations. And do not be shy about handing your camera over as the tour guides know the best lighting for pictures!

Be prepared to give up an entire day for this tour. In hindsight, I wish I had added an extra day to my itinerary so that I could have experienced a full three days of hiking in Sedona. Food for thought.

Day Four: Chicken Point via Little Horse

Because I had a later flight on my last day and missed a day with my tour, I decided to do one last hike at sunrise… and knew the exact trail I was going to conquer.

My entire time in Sedona, I kept driving by this obscure sign directing traffic to the Little Horse Trailhead. This trail had not popped up in any of my previous research, but I grew intrigued with each drive by… thank goodness I tend to let my curiosity get the best of me.

Little Horse was my final and second favorite hike in Sedona. Though I missed the peak sunrise due to coyotes yelping in the dark distance, I headed out on this trail just at dawn, under a mauve sky in frigid temperatures. I was the only one on the trail, which had a wide clear path that meandered down into a slight valley surrounded by agave and red sand. In the distance, I could just make out Cathedral and Bell Rocks standing tall against sherbert sky. The air was still and the world quiet as I made my way through the first light of day. Watching the sun crest over jagged buttes and shine on rocky peaks was breathtaking.

Little Horse is an easy trek, with slight turns and inclines that give way to perfect views of well-known landmarks and russet rock. It was a perfectly clear morning, and my boots were the only sound as I trudged upward from the valley and towards the summit of Chicken Point. Shaded maroon stone gave way to rugged tangerine rock as the sun glided over and lit everything around me on fire. I kept thinking I was catching the best view as I climbed higher and higher; easily following well-marked footpaths and signs.

When I reached Chicken Point, I was greeted with 360-degree views of broad canyons bursting with color. The summit is a massive, rounded stone that is ideal for simply sitting and admiring the views. Opposite Little Horse is another trailhead shared with Jeep tours – GET HERE EARLY. Having this space to yourself in the early morning hours (before 8 am) was the best ending to my already blissed out hiking adventure. Little Horse is totally underrated and an absolute must-do hike when visiting Sedona.

I never knew Arizona had such magic and, looking back, I am glad a lost passport led me to this sacred space (another story for another time). A place that was not even on my hiking radar has quickly become one of my most memorable hiking experiences. And while I cannot speak about how the adventures are in the summer, spring or fall, I can tell you that winter is a special season for exploring this stunning place.

Until next time… Happy Hiking!

NOTABLE EATS

The Henry in Phoenix – The Cleo and Flower Child Scramble

Coffee Pot – Home of 101 Omelets

Village Chophouse – The Lychee Lychee Martini, Ahi Tuna, Filet with Bacon Horseradish Mash, and a glass of Gran Moraine Pinot Noir

Dellapiane – The Dellapiane Burger!

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill – The Juniperita Cocktail, Filet with Elote off the Cob and Three Cheese Mac, Prickly Pear Cheesecake, and a glass of Tenant Syrah