Once Upon a Time in Mexico
Sparkling Cenotes, Authentic Tacos, and Exploring Tulum by Bike
Mexico is magic. There is no debate about that for me. It is a place that I connect with personally; not only because it is where my family is from but because there is so much more beyond the commercialism and tourist traps. Beyond the American-influenced borders, there are thriving communities of people that protect their culture, honor their lands, and have love affairs with food that hasn’t been processed nor hijacked with additives. Mexico is home. It’s where I feel most loved. And while Tulum is on the brink of being consumed by Americans, it is still very much an untouched gem whose enchantment truly comes from its natives.
Pueblo vs. Playa
Accommodations: Hotel Naa’la
Source: Booking.com
Beachfront is often most alluring for the obvious reasons: waking up to the soothing sounds of ocean waves, having direct access to stunning beaches, and staying in a zone where one likely feels most “safe”. Living in Florida, where the beach is my backyard, I prefer to be where the locals are.
There are two options when visiting Tulum: Pueblo or Playa. The pueblo, which literally translates to “town”, is a short 20-minute bike ride to Tulum’s bright aqua waters. Bustling with local food trucks, stray dogs, and residents, the pueblo is true Mexico. The streets are barely paved, there isn’t a Starbucks in sight, and English words are few and far between. The air is filled with fragrant smells of grilled meat and vendors are start their day early sweeping their front sidewalks with busted brooms. Colorful homes are broken up by boutique hotels with open-air lobbies and racks of beat-up bicycles. And the sounds of daily life are interrupted by the trumpets and violins of Mariachi bands over speakers.
Hotel Naa’la is a small, 87-room, contemporary hotel styled to suit its surroundings: lush gardens and a tropical oasis. The rooms are bright and furnished in simple, coastal style, with balcony’s facing the interior gardens. Two rooftop pools offer stunning 360-degree views of the Pueblo and beyond, and one can even book a massage in between cocktails and tanning.
The location was perfect and ideal for walking or biking, with the hotel offering hourly or full-day rentals on pedal bikes to take you around town or straight to the beach!
Obviously, I am a Pueblo kind of gal; someone that prefers to be fully immersed in the cultural distinctions of a new place and not surrounded by Americans. I also noticed a huge price difference between the Pueblo and the Playa, with beachfront hotels costing upwards of $2,000 for four days… compared to the $400 we paid in a gorgeous, clean, and friendly hotel. If on a budget, enjoy walking, biking or even four-wheeling, and prefer the more authentic side of Tulum, I recommend the Pueblo, hands down.
One Day, Four Amazing Cenotes
If you’re on TikTok, Instagram, or pretty much any other social platform, you know that Tulum is known for their stunning cenotes. These naturally carved pits, which are really sinkholes, are bordered by limestone and filled with refreshing, natural spring waters. A literal gaping hole in the earth, one can jump, dive, or even climb a ladder down to the crystal-clear waters for a cool dip and reprieve from the blistering sun. No two cenotes are the same, which makes for a fascinating day trip to explore these underground watering holes and support local businesses.
There are so many cenotes to choose from and there is no way to see them all in one short trip. However, we were able to map out a day of four lengthy visits, on bike, to some incredible ones within an 8-mile radius.
Cenote Calavera | Cost: $12 USD
Cenote Calavera is an Instagram-lovers dream. A short walk-through airy gardens leads to a looming boulder with a gaping mouth. Surrounded by colorful Adirondack chairs, one can quickly snag a seat and watch people somersault into the deep waters before working up the courage to take a swim.
There are two “jumping” holes, with one much larger and more suitable for risky jumps. A heavy wooden ladder makes it easy to make your way back up and a lone swing awaits you for the perfect photo. There is not a lot of natural light, and the water is extremely deep here. A must for adrenaline junkies, this cenote is small but mighty.
Visitor Beware: Cenote Calavera will charge you to use your GoPro.
Gran Cenote | Cost: $25
The most expensive Cenote on our day trip happens to be the most common and well-known in Tulum. The main attraction is the water and what I liked most about this cenote was the snorkel gear rentals. With limestone walls only on one side, Gran Cenote has a lot of natural light and an easier access route. We rented gear and plunged into the cool waters to swim with the turtles.
A dark cave was also accessible to guests but beware – hordes of bats were spotted hanging upside down in dark massive clusters. While I did enjoy the ease of snorkeling and the turtles, this cenote is very overcrowded, which takes away from some of its untouched magic.
Visitor Beware: Gran Cenote has no place to sit – only a faux green turf to lay out your towel and belongings.
Cenote Zacil-Ha | Cost: $200-300 Pesos
If looking for a cenote to spend a half or full day at, Cenote Zacil-Ha is for you. This massive space is dominated by a large, bright cenote but also surrounded by various amenities to enjoy for the day, including a pool and various restaurants. Vibrant music keeps you energized and the cerveza comes to you upon request.
While the cenote mouth is huge, the watering hole itself is not that big. However, for five pesos, you can tap into your courageous side and zipline into the crisp waters below. Make sure to break for lunch here and enjoy various dishes from local chefs!
Visitor Beware: If the zipline is popular, there is not much room for swimming.
Cenote Zemway | Cost: $250 Pesos
One can easily pass by Cenote Zemway and miss out on an incredible sink hole. A lone sign on the side of the road is the only directional visual to this cenote, which is located far back off the highway down a long dirt road. We heard about Cenote Zemway from a local and knew we wouldn’t be disappointed.
While there is no official bar or restaurant on-site, you can purchase fresh juices and fruits upon entrance. This cenote had the deepest sinkhole of the day, with two jumping platforms and a rope swing near the base. A long limestone stairway leads you down to the dock and all swimmers are required to wear life vests. What I loved most about this cenote was how remote and peaceful it was. The cliff jumping was a plus!
Visitor Beware: Cenote Zemway charges for use of lounge chairs.
Must-Do Experiences
For those that enjoy working up a sweat while on vacay, be sure to stop by the Jungle Gym, a beachfront open-air gym complete with weights and machines carved entirely out of wood.
Stepping into Azulik is like walking into a lush tropical jungle. Head to the rooftop for craft cocktails while enjoying the sunset. Not for those afraid of heights, what makes this rooftop bar unique are the seating areas made entirely out of sturdy netting and that provide panoramic views above AND below!
If not staying beachside but want to enjoy the amenities of a beachfront resort, spend the day at M Tulum, a luxurious beach club that offers day rentals and bedside service on their comfy lounge beds. An all day bed rental is $75 and includes tableside service with incredible views of Tulum’s powder white sands and turquoise waters.
For adrenaline junkies, spend the day at Akumal Monkey Sanctuary, which offers package deals on their sanctuary tours, ATV rides, and trip to a cenote. We did the full deal and enjoyed supporting a local organization dedicated to rescuing and rehabilitating wild animals.
Night Out at M Tulum
If looking for a fun night out, consider escaping the beach zone and head into the pueblo for an evening at M Tulum. This small yet lively lounge serves up delicious drinks, offers aromatic hookah, and has a DJ spinning old school hip hop. If there on a good night, expect an entertaining live show!
Best (and Cheap) Eats
La Taqueria Pinches Taco Shop - Playa
We had a lot of authentic food and incredible tacos in Tulum, but La Taqueria Pinches Taco Shop was the winner for me. Located in la playa, this open-air eatery serves up a traditional Mexican meal of tasty tacos and cold cervezas. The protein is seasoned well, the vegetables are fresh and charred to perfection, the salsas are homemade, and the tortillas are warm. Don’t be surprised if you make a repeat performance at this friendly restaurant.
El Rincon de Jaguar - Pueblo
So nice, had to eat here twice! El Rincon de Jaguar is in the heart of the pueblo and offers a gorgeous interior patio area for dining, away from the hustle and bustle of the town’s chaotic streets. The service is exceptional here and you are welcomed with warmth and hospitality from everyone that works there. Cool off after a day of exploring with their fresh juices (the mango is to die for!) and expertly crafted cocktails and savor the warmly toasted chips the arrive to your table complimentary with creamy bean dip and spicy salsa. Every dish we ordered was amazing – you won’t be disappointed!
Café Kanaab - Pueblo
Café Kanaab was another eatery that we passed through twice due to its service and food quality. Tucked away into a residential area, this restaurant is frequented by locals and provides a relaxing tropical atmosphere to enjoy breakfast. Brush up on your Spanish as the staff only speak the native language and be sure to bring pesos for payment. This tiny café gives a big punch of flavor with their small but mighty menu that includes a fresh fruit platter, savory omelets, and even vegan options.
Don Cafeto – Pueblo
If seeking a truly authentic experience and spot not frequented by tourists, stop into Don Cafeto for a traditional desayuno Mexicano! Expect platters of eggs, chorizo, and beans, paired with soft corn tortillas and a small bowl of pickled carrots, jalapenos, and onions. This is a cash only establishment so take time to learn paying with pesos and expand on your Spanish speaking.
Burro Tulum – Pueblo
Burro is in a small plaza in the Pueblo and is a walk-up eatery that serves burritos packed with fresh veggies and protein of choice. Not your traditional American burrito, these burros give a nod of appreciation to faithful yet simple flavors. You won’t find gobs of cheese or sour cream within the folds of the soft tortilla, but instead chargrilled chunks of meat and fire roasted peppers, onions, and tomatoes. These are a perfect late-night snack that won’t make you feel guilty in the morning.
While commercialization is well under way at this once off-the-beaten-path town, there is still so much vibrant authenticity and local appreciation. Plan your trip soon and get ready to fall in love with Tulum!
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