Cassandra Thomas

Jul 31, 20227 min read

Ode to Oregon

Updated: Jan 22, 2023

How a Suspension Bridge, a Seaside Town, and Spring Snowstorms Stole My Heart.

Homebase: Portland

I may be biased but… the West Coast is truly the best Coast. I have never lived anywhere else that can provide golden beaches, towering trees, and snow-capped mountains. Having grown up in California, peaks and valleys and gigantic tree trunks have always held a special place in my heart. So, it is fair to say that I fell in love with Oregon even before I explored its majestic treasures.

Oregon in and of itself is a hiker’s dream. Whether exploring Bend in the middle region, Eugene on the western side, or Portland in the upper north part of the state, Oregon has so much to offer in terms of outdoor adventure.

I chose Portland as my homebase mostly due to airfare cost and, while I did enjoy the chance to see a bit of this funky artistic city, I am very much looking forward to sightseeing in Bend or Eugene on my next trip there.

Hotel Grand Stark is a stunning renovated building located in the Buckman neighborhood, a vibrant industrial area of Portland overflowing with incredible architecture and unique local shops and eateries. This boutique-style hotel provides guests with modern rooms that are warmed with artistic touches and comforting colors. The eclectic common space includes quiet nooks for reading, working, or conversation, and the attached bar offers complimentary wine tastings.

Bonus: Hotel Grand Stark is kitty corner to Next Adventure, a large outdoor sports store that is perfect for any last minute or forgotten hiking items.

Itinerary

Day #1: Columbia River Gorge

The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area is a great introduction to Oregon hiking if staying in or near the Portland area. This scenic drive stretches a full 80-miles, a winding road that meanders past lush forestry, towering cliffs, and stunning waterfalls. Convenient “lookout spots” make it easy to park your car along and throughout this canyon drive for light hiking to incredible sights, including the famous Multnomah Falls.

I went straight from my rental car pick up to the Columbia River Gorge, changing out my shoes easily and throwing on my waterproof jacket. Though it was a dreary day, the trails were clear, and the falls were magnificent.

Day #2: Cannon Beach & Ecola State Park

I thought I would be safe weather-wise visiting Oregon in late April… I was wrong. High peaks were still covered in snow and the roads were often icy in the mornings. This did not deter me from making the 1.5-hour drive from Portland to Cannon Beach, a seaside town where dense forest collide with the crashing waves of the Atlantic.

I fell in love with Cannon Beach immediately upon arrival. Parking was easy in the quaint, beachside town and there were many options as far as getting a hearty breakfast and loading up on supplies were concerned. I was warmly greeted by the crew at Pig & Pancake, a small and cozy restaurant that served up homestyle, diner-style food. The coffee was delicious, and the sourdough toast made me regret ever leaving the West Coast.

Before exploring Indian Beach, I decided to take the quick detoured road to Ecola State Park, a stunning forest that stretches along nine miles of coastline and provides the most impressive viewpoints of Cannon Beach and beyond.

I was lucky to set foot into this magical forest just as it had recently reopened after being closed for five months due to severe weather conditions. It was apparent that not many had hiked the trails in some time but that park staff had done a meticulous job of keeping trails clear. While there were several felled massive trunks on the trails hiked, it only served to make my adventure more exciting. Being surrounded by so much lush, overgrown earth was extraordinary and I often felt as if I was in an enchanted woodland.

The highlights of exploring Ecola State Park were hiking the Tillamook Trailhead, which led to a clear view of the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse; and Clatsop Loop, which provided striking views of Indian Beach – complete with surfers, mammoth waves, and towering rock formations exploding out of the sea.

Be sure to take time after your hike to relax beachside for a spell. The dense toffee hued sand glitters from the sapphire sea and seeing Haystack Rock up close and personal is a must!

Day #3: Silver Falls State Park & Tunnel Beach

Was it worth going in the wrong direction for two hours only to discover your GPS sucks and you must double back to get to the actual Silver Falls State Park?

Absolutely.

Side Note: If directionally challenged like me, it is so important to ensure you are inputting the correct destination in your GPS. If you do not have an actual address handy, be sure to type out the full place and open maps to ensure of your surroundings.

When I finally reached Silver Falls State Park, I had no idea what I was in for. Oregon is known for their pristine waterfalls and the Trail of Ten Falls certainly lived up to its name. Trudging through slush and ice did not stop me, or others, from trekking the almost 7.5-mile loop, interrupted only by the sounds of rushing waters over imposing cliffs.

Consisting of the both the Canyon Trail and Rim Trails, the full Trail of Ten Falls takes you above, behind and around 10 monumental falls, all of which crash into the most beautiful blue waters. The weather only made this hike more surreal, with moments of light hail intersecting with bursts of sunshine that created a glittering, crystallized atmosphere. I could have stayed on this trail for hours and hours, something that is very possible thanks to the comfortable natural seating around and behind the falls.

While the beauty of Silver Falls begged for me to stay longer, my planned itinerary was to tackle at least two hiking destinations and sights per day. The full trail, including breaks, took me about three hours to complete; leaving plenty of time to make the drive to the infamous, yet secret, Tunnel Beach.

Adjacent to popular Oceanside Beach, one can easily miss the fabricated entrance carved into a massive chunk of rock reaching towards the sea. When I first arrived, I almost missed it as the entrance is not marked nor heavily populated. While I hope this destination remains a glorious small community secret, I cannot help but share my experience venturing through a dark tunnel that led me to one of the most pristine beaches I have ever seen.

The entrance to Tunnel Beach looks… creepy. The first portion of “tunnel” is manufactured, with concrete walls adorned heavily with graffiti. There is no artificial light, only the natural aura provided at the main entrance and another in the shape of an irregular circle on the far opposite side. If afraid of the dark, this may not be the route for you, as even a cell phone’s flashlight only provides a dim view; most of which is needed to point downwards when the man-made portion gives way to the natural rock formed tunnel.

I will admit it. I was a little scared once I hit the darkest part of the tunnel. The only sounds are the dripping of water from the crevices around you and you lose complete sight of the main entrance as the tunnel slightly curves. The uneven ground is dangerous – with large boulders, pieces of driftwood, and sunken holes getting in your way. While the urge was to run straight through, I had to move slowly and was so relieved when I finally reached the opening to Tunnel Beach.

How can I describe Tunnel Beach? It is a semi-remote stretch of smooth sand, cobalt waters, and stately rock formations. A large portion is shadowed by the towering wall that houses the actual tunnel and the sand is dotted with an array of agates in a variety of colors. Most of the people on the beach were searching for these translucent gemstones, formed over thousands of years, but I decided to climb some of the larger rock formations dotted along the shoreline for incredible views of the vast ocean.

This detour after a semi-challenging hike was so worthwhile and I recommend taking the time to explore Tunnel Beach for yourself.

Day #4: Siuslaw National Forest, Devils Cauldron, Oswald West State Park

Hiking Siuslaw National Forest was an amazing accident. It was not on my radar until I learned more about its suspension bridge – the competing attraction on the Drift Creek Falls Trailhead. This family-friendly hike takes you through beautiful coastal forest and leads you to a massive 240-ft bridge suspended between two cliffs and only overshadowed by a 75-ft waterfall.

Drift Creek Falls was one of my favorite trails on this trip. It is not very populated and provides you with a peaceful hike on soft earth and surrounded by towering trees. If afraid of heights, this may not be the hike for you… but I do hope you consider it. This bridge itself is incredible and the trail at the end of it takes you down front and center to the amazing waterfall. Benches dot the base of the falls, creating the perfect backdrop to rest your legs, hydrate, and enjoy some snacks.

I knew that I wanted to head back up the coast for my last day and attempt to find Devils Cauldron, an easy hike within Oswald West State Park that leads you to dramatic cliffside cove.

Right off Highway 101, this 0.5-mile trailhead is easy to miss but not one to pass up. Just remember to plug in “Elk Flats/Oregon Coast Trail” if you want to pinpoint the exact pull in spot off the highway. The Devil’s Cauldron trail shares its starting point with this trail and markers are only visible at the split. However, once on it, it is a quick and easy trek to unforgettable views of both the horizon and down in the depths of the cliffside’s bowl.

After soaking in some amazing, and risky, views, I had just enough time to take one shorter hike before the sunset. So, I decided to stay within Oswald West State Park and tackle Short Sands Beach Trail. This mostly flat, in and out trail, gets you up close and personal with unique trees whose trunks have been split into multiple legs that one can meander through. After crossing a short bridge, I found myself on another superb beach, flanked on each side by stately pines upon grand cliffs. It was the perfect place to end my hike and my trip.

And let me tell you this: there is no sunset like that on a beach.