Hoodoo You Love? I love Utah.

Mastering Two of the Mighty Five & One Magical Waterfall

Until last year, Utah was never on my radar. It always seemed like this random plot of land surrounded by much more interesting states.

I was so incredibly wrong.

Search the word “hiking” or any similar term and Utah will absolutely show up front and center. Home of the Mighty Five - Arches, Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, and Zion – these national parks boast some of the most grandiose landscapes in the country. Stately rock formations, monumental ranges, and desert colors of sienna, saffron, and copper are spread throughout as far as the eye can see. And, if one is lucky, the Mighty Five can be conquered; each park offering its own special formula of jaw-dropping beauty.

Homebase: Cedar City, UT

Accommodations: Cottages on Shakespeare Lane

Source: Booking.com

Cedar City is a unique and charming community nestled in Iron County, about 250 miles south of Salt Lake City. I chose this destination because of its proximity to my desired destinations: Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Home to the annual Utah Shakespeare Festival, the town is bustling with artistic personalities, independent shops, and natural beauty.

Staying at the Cottages on Shakespeare Lane, which is located amidst the Southern Utah University campus, was convenient and comfortable. These apartment-style accommodations come with complimentary covered parking and full interior amenities. I stayed in the Penthouse, the largest room on-site, which featured a king-sized bed, living room with pull-out sofa, kitchen, full bath with shower and soaking tub, and private balcony with mountain views. The porcelain soaking tub was my favorite part about the Penthouse and I definitely indulged nightly after a long day of hiking Utah’s grand vista.

The Itinerary

Day 1: Zion National Park

Trails: Emerald Pools, Angel’s Landing, The Narrows

Hearing about Zion and experiencing Zion are two different sides of the same coin. I feel honored that I randomly chose this as the first of the Mighty Five that I will eventually see, this park that is home to the infamous Angel’s Landing, ranked one of the nation’s most dangerous hikes, and The Narrows, a slim valleyed gorge only accessible if willing to get your feet wet.

I anticipated the physical exertion that Angel’s Landing would have on my body and initially opted to skip The Narrows due to this and the fact that it was November and freezing. While Zion does offer equipment rental for The Narrows, including high jumpers and poles, my plan was to stick with Emerald Pools before facing Angel’s Landing.

Emerald Pools consists of three mini hikes that, in total, make up a fairly easy 2.5-mile round trip journey. Segmented into three parts: Lower Trail, Middle Trail, and Upper Pool, this trail is highlighted by sparkling waterfalls cascading over toffee-hued cliffs and glistening fresh-water pools that are crystal clear and refreshing to the touch. Well-marked and with small incline points, this is a very family-friendly and/or beginner hiker ready trail and a great introduction to Zion.

Angel’s Landing, on the other hand, is not for the faint of heart.

While admiring the views around me on a bridge at the base of Emerald Pools, I remember looking up and spotting this massive wall with an incline so steep, the trail was in a zigzag formation from top to bottom. I knew, even from a distance, that this was going to be a difficult hike, even for someone in great shape. I also knew I wasn’t going to leave without reaching the top.

Nobody talks about how long and how strenuous the hike is just to the BASE of Angel’s Landing. The zigzag alone took me a solid 1.5, almost 2 hours. Add in the elevation gain of 1,488, and you have pretty much just demolished your body for the day. The consistent angle at which your ankles and calves are subjected to will make you want to throw your boots over the edge but the curious chipmunks that cross your path will make you smile, and the countless resting points will provide a bit of relief before the numbing sets in.

Truth moment: I thought I had actually accomplished something when I reached the top of the mind-dizzying zigzag. I literally yelped for joy and did a fist pump. Then I saw a sign that indicated Angel’s Landing was just ahead and, as my eyes caught up to my brain, I allowed them to follow an incredibly narrow crest, rising up and over the scenery below with steep drops on either side.

This was the moment that true fear set in for me.

I had heard the stories and done the reading but, actually being at the base of this historic trail - one where lives have been lost - and knowing that I was about to tackle it, was a heart-pounding moment. I took a very long break, to rest and to make sure that I was up for this trail. And I wasn’t the only one. All around me were people “resting”. There were conversations of doubt and questions of hesitancy and even groups that turned right back around and made the arduous journey back down.

I made the decision to move forward.

The moment I realized that I had to scale the walls, with mere chains protruding from rock crevices in random areas, was the moment I put my phone away and focused fully on reaching the top. There can be no mistakes with Angel’s Landing. There are no harnesses or belay devices. There is no safety net waiting to catch you if you slip and fall thousands of feet down into the canyon. There is no barrier to help break your fall. The beauty of Angel’s Landing is just that – it’s this magnificently terrifying rock formation that is there to be admired and appreciated… and hiked.

I honestly can’t say if I would do it again. It was exciting and thrilling and literally took all of my courage to get to the top. But I can say that what I saw and experienced, throughout the climb and when I reached the peak, is something that will forever remain one of the best moments of my life.

Angel’s Landing took about 5 hours total, which can be a solid day depending on exertion levels. When I started to make my way back down, I just knew that I was going to hop on one of the park's free shuttles and head back to my car. However, I ended up in step with a fellow solo hiker, also visiting Zion for the first time, and raving about her experience with The Narrows earlier that day and that changed everything.

The conversation sparked my curious (and competitive) spirit, which led me down a soft dirt path and into the opening of a long, winding gorge, embraced by towering stones the colors of buff, chestnut and ginger. Armed with just my Columbia hiking boots, I patiently observed other hikers, some equipped and some not, plunging into the frigid water and carefully balancing their way through clusters of slippery rock. I knew I wasn’t leaving without experiencing at least a piece of this premier hike.

Can you trek through The Narrows in your hiking boots? Yes. Would I recommend it in the middle of late Autumn? No. The water, while refreshing, was ice-cold. Thankfully, waterproof boots made for a lightweight trek, but nothing could prevent the chilly water from seeping through. I made it about .75 miles in before turning back and it was glorious. Water depth reached about mid-thigh at its deepest point for me and I was lucky to wade far enough to see shimmering waterfalls and feel completely enveloped by the striking rock walls. It will be a return hike for me in the future… preferably in a warmer month. If you love geology and don’t mind getting wet, The Narrows is right up your alley.

Day 2: Bryce Canyon National Park

Trails: Queens Garden, Navajo Loop, Peekaboo Loop, Rim Trail, Mossy Cave

I never knew what a hoodoo was until I stepped foot into Bryce Canyon National Park. Massive deep canyons harbor bright russet cylinder shaped rock formations that reach towards the heavens in various heights. If you are a fan of Dr. Seuss and the uncanny illustrations that pair perfectly with his stories, then Bryce Canyon is for you.

Hoodoos are tall spindly structures that are formed after years and years of erosion, so stepping foot into this magical park is quite fascinating. You are literally surrounded by sedimentary rock that has taken eons to form. Situated in gigantic basins, there is no poor vantage point to view these spires, whether from below traipsing through Queen’s Garden or from above walking the edge of the Upper Rim Trail.

I chose to start at the top, work my way down and then back up. The Upper Rim Trail has a moderate incline, much more forgivable than the ones experienced at Zion. Soft dirt trails are well marked and there are plenty of resting points with incredible views. While I didn’t make it in time to view the sunrise, I did catch the sunset at the end of my day and I don’t think you can go wrong with either one.

Reaching the top of Upper Rim and gazing out at what was below took my breath away. I felt transported to another planet. The earth looked so startlingly unfamiliar, with brilliant colors blending together like a perfect watercolor. Bronze and tawny mixed with rich toffee bloomed out into a mountain range of snow caps and bright blue sky. Patches of stark white snow interrupted the rich browns below, adding a vibrancy to the overall landscape, and rich green pines sprouted from nature's intended spots. It was one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen.

I spent a fair amount of time on the Upper Rim as the vantage point was so incredibly inspiring. But I knew I wanted to view these hoodoos from a different and more up-close angle, so headed down to Queens Garden, a very family friendly portion of Bryce Canyon that serves as a hub for connecting trails and includes natural rock arches that you can pass through. Queens Garden is perfect in terms of hoodoo proximity and is a well marked, soft dirt trail that can accommodate even the most novice hiker.

I accessed Navajo Loop to Peekaboo Loop from Queen’s Garden but didn’t have the chance to finish due to timing. This particular trail combination is challenging and lengthy, spanning a total of close to 5 miles. I embarked well into the afternoon and hit the midway point before turning back. While I didn’t have the chance to finish, I highly recommend this trail on your next visit. The winding trail reaches varying degrees of height and awards you with stunning views of hoodoos, basin walls, and lush trees. The combination of rich greenery against the dry desert vista is stunning; like two worlds colliding in perfect harmony.

Mossy Cave was actually my first stop before entering Bryce Canyon. Located just off of Highways 12 and 63, this in and out trail is less than .5 miles and leads to a peaceful grotto created by an underground spring. It’s an incredibly easy hike that even includes a waterfall! Make sure to stop and check it out before or after a long day of exploring Bryce Canyon.

Day 3: Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument

Trails: Lower Calf Creek Falls

If planning on tackling multiple of the Mighty Five, be sure to add in some time to rest or take on a less strenuous day hike on your trip. The first days of my experience in Utah were unforgettable yet incredibly exhausting. The physical toll that Zion and Bryce had on my body was massive enough that I opted to take it easy and do a single hike on my last day at Grand Staircase-Escalante in Kanab, UT.

Conversations with other hikers and local residents led me to this spectacular park that is often overshadowed by the Mighty Five. Designated a National Monument, Escalante’s “Grand Staircase” is a massive plateau that spans nearly 1.87 million acres. This protected space is overflowing with carved canyons, sparkling rivers, and stair-shaped cliffs; the rugged terrain flourishing with colors of marigold, jade, ecru and olive. It is one of the most majestic sites to see in Utah.

Lower Calf Creek Falls has yet to fall prey to tourists. While fairly easy to find, cell service was nonexistent and I only found it after three failed assumed stops and asking for directions from locals. Set right off of the main road that snakes throughout the monument, this trail is adored by residents that, I have a strong feeling, want to keep it that way.

Lower Calf Creek Falls is a fairly flat, in and out almost 7 mile trek that is not well marked so be prepared with handy navigation tools. Because it is not very populated and reception is spotty, it is important that you have a good sense of direction and surroundings. Escalante is massive and the trail often splits into various directions, with no signage in sight. However, the journey to its highlight, a towering waterfall that pours into a cerulean pool of fresh water, makes the chances of getting lost kind of worth it.

My ultimate goal? Conquer the Mighty Five and continue to fall hopelessly in love with Utah.