Cassandra Thomas
- Oct 15, 2022
- 6 min read

Exploring Big Sky Country

Updated: Jan 22, 2023

A Charming Ski Town, Trail by Horse, and Eating a PB&J Glacier-Side

Accommodations: The Pine Lodge on Whitefish River

It is not called God’s country by mistake. Montana is one of those majestic places that MUST be seen in person. Pics, videos, and verbal translations do not bring justice to the blue mountain backdrops cradling valleys of glacier lakes and blooming wildflowers.

THE GEOGRAPHY

I flew into Kalispell, which is a small airport but one closest to Glacier National Park. I always opt for a hotel stay when hiking because I love exploring quaint towns as much as I love trekking trails. The charming ski town of Whitefish is only a 15-minute drive from the airport and 30 minutes from the western side of Glacier National. It is important to make note of west vs east Glacier as this park is massive and drive times will vary depending on which side you choose to set up your homebase.

Though 2.5 hours from East Glacier, I would recommend Whitefish for anyone that swoons over small independent shops, local restaurants with welcoming vibes and delicious eats, and unique accommodations – from hotels to cabins to mountainside retreats. Whitefish has everything one needs in terms of hiking supplies and food, with a sleepy but vibrant downtown that I imagine is bursting at the seams during ski season and summer months. Visiting in October was perfect, from the weather to the crowds, and, as always, I encourage off-season hiking adventures to peak ones for this reason.

ITINERARY

Day #1: South Boundary Trail, Two Medicine Lake South Shore Trail

South Boundary Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: 11.7 miles

Type: In and Out

All Trails rates this as an easy route but this trail is decorated with tons of switchbacks and sharp inclines. The soft ground and abundance of shade does provide relief but there are moments of labored breathing and heavy sweating. This trail can be easy to miss as the entrance is outside of the main one entering West Glacier so keep an eye out for posts along the highway for this trail along with others.

What I loved most about the South Boundary Trail was the suspension bridge, which is so old and rickety that only one hiker at a time is permitted to cross. This is a great spot to stop for a rest or a snack as there is a man-made path once crossed that leads down to the babbling creek. I could not get enough of the ice-cold, fresh water rushing over rocks in hues of magenta, jade, navy, and lavender. Pair that with the Fall foliage in full bloom and one could easily lose time on breaks.

There are spots that give way through the thick pines and provide stunning views from elevations upwards of 1,400 feet, so be sure to have your best pose ready!

Running Eagle Falls

Hiking Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 0.6 miles

Type: In and Out

Running Eagle Falls is an ideal detour in between hikes. Less than two miles from Two Medicine Lake Trailhead, this in-and-out, level trail leads you to a breathtaking waterfall. Don’t be afraid to get up close and personal – the massive boulders are easy to climb and the these falls are best seen front and center!

Two Medicine Lake South Shore Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 6.6 miles

Type: In and Out

This was the perfect day-end trail after a more intense day of hiking. Two Medicine Lake is a stunning massive body of water perfect for relaxing while watching the sunset or fly fishing. I spent quite a bit of time merely taking in the views – a rigid horizon of navy, azure and cobalt melted into calm clear waters with a glass surface. Not heavily populated during the Fall season, I imagine this setting to be ideal for an artist, writer, or someone seeking simple solitude.

While there is currently road construction (as of 10/5/22) blocking vehicle traffic to trailheads around this lake, the South Shore Trail entrance can be reached by foot quiet easily. An immediate incline at the base of this trail plateaus out to an easy hike through dense forest and glimpses of the lake. This is a great trail for families with small children, as it is mostly flat and offers great resting spots. While the trail views are gorgeous, the real showstopper here is the lake, which will continue to draw you in with each tired step.

Day #2: Grinnell Lake and Glacier Trail

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 10.6 miles

Type: In and Out

This will forever remain a special trail to me as it was my first experience where nature brought me to tears. The trail to Grinnell Glacier is challenging but magical. Be prepared to be stopped in your tracks with the most incredible views of deep valleys overflowing in a river of colors and a glacier lake such an intense shade of turquoise, you can hardly believe your own eyes.

This hike is intense, but I did see people of all ages trekking ahead and behind me. Steep hills give way to short plateaus and the sharp boulders protruding from underneath your boots as well as the side of magnificent cliffs are enough reason to pack your hiking poles. The beauty of this hike makes you almost forget that your completing close to 11 miles…. Great news is that there are resting spots to take a breath, watch a mountain goat graze, or be mesmerized by the towering waterfall connecting Grinnell Glacier and its lake below. Any moment where thoughts of quitting creep in must be pushed out of your mind, for what happens at the top will be worth any muscle ache.

Sitting in a massive basin surrounded by massive chunks of blue ice that is thousands of years old was an indescribable experience for me. As I sat there marveling at what laid before me and eating my PB&J, I became so overwhelmed with a plethora of emotions: gratitude that I was physically strong enough to make the trip to see it for myself; awe over just how impossibly amazing this earth is; pride over moving forward with my life, after a great loss, to do the things I had only every talked about before; and sadness at how quickly this marvelous thing is melting away before our very eyes.

Grinnell Glacier lost almost 40% of its total acreage between 1966 and 2005. Glaciologists predict that it, along with all the glaciers in Glacier National Park, will be completely gone by 2030 – a mere 7 years from now.

I left this trail that day with a heart full of intention. To continue to support our national parks. To actively participate as someone invested in preserving earth’s natural resources. And to continue to experience as much of this worldly beauty as I can.

Day #3: Rocky Point Trail via Lake McDonald

Hiking Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 2.2 miles

Type: In and Out

After two days of extreme hiking, I opted to spend my final hike day taking an easier route. While the Going-to-the-Sun Road was closed on this trip, there is still so much to explore in West Glacier. If you follow Camas Road in the opposite direction, you will find various trailheads, including Rocky Point via Lake McDonald.

Be sure to pack your sunnies before hitting this trail as the massive lake serves as a mighty reflector against the bright sun. With views that you do not want to miss, take extra care to make sure your glasses are polarized.

Rocky Point is an easy in and out trail with mild inclines and soft earth to help pad weary soles. Be sure to stop and soak in the views, whether high or low (both if you can!). The trail splits in various directions so be sure to tap into your inner child by using all your senses to explore!

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Horseback riding with Swann Mountain Outfitters: I decided to hit the trails on horseback my last morning and Swann Mountain Outfitters was a fantastic group to ride with. My wrangler, Ethan, was so knowledgeable about the area and kept me intrigued the entire 2.5-hour ride through Lewis & Clark National Forest.

Fun Fact: While National Forests do have hiking trails, they are not well maintained nor marked like National Parks and are best suited for more experienced hikers and campers.

If ever visiting Glacier National and want to give your feet a break, I highly recommend booking a horse ride with this company. They offer anywhere from 1-hour to full day excursions, including a Cowboy Cookout!

Haunted Hayride at Clydesdale Outpost: I never pass up a chance for haunted anything, especially during Spooky Season. Clydesdale Outpost is a short distance from the town of Whitefish and goes all out for Halloween thrills! This family friendly, seasonal activity includes firepits, concession, bar, pics with a Clydesdale, and a haunted hayride through their spooky forest. It was extra thrilling in the dead of night and the creepy cocktails were delicious!