Cassandra Thomas
- Oct 4, 2023
- 14 min read

Bear Spotting in Banff

A Teahouse on a Mountain, Black Bear Encounter, and 94,874 Steps in Three Days

Homebase: Canmore

Accommodations: Blackstone Mountain Lodge

THE GEOGRAPHY

Banff has been a bucket list item for years. Spreading more than 2,500 square miles in Alberta, 96% of the park is pure open wilderness. A hiker’s dream, Canada’s oldest national park is made up of steep mountains, golden Larch trees, and the most vivid aquamarine water you may ever see.

While my initial plan included lodging right in the heart of Banff, an unexpected schedule change placed me in Canmore, a short 15 minutes outside of Banff and just as charming. Canmore is a small skiing community that is quickly becoming a popular destination; rightfully so with its proximity to the famous Three Sisters, a trio of towering peaks known individually as Big Sister, Middle Sister, and Little Sister; delicious local fare and beers; and strong sense of a tight-knit community of people that care about one another and the natural land around them.

I flew into Calgary, the closest major airport to Banff, and drove an easy 1.5 hours to my accommodations: Blackstone Mountain Lodge. Situated in a “mini village” of townhomes and condos, Blackstone Mountain Lodge immediately welcomes you with an outdoorsy energy – from the large stuffed bear in the lobby to the earthy tones, fireplaces, and cozy décor. Amenities include a heated pool, hot tub, gym, and underground parking. While one of my more expensive hiking stays, complimentary covered parking, a mini kitchen in my room, daily housekeeping, and proximity to the park was well worth it.

ITINERARY

Day #1: Johnston Canyon Lower & Upper Falls, Inkpots, Silverton Falls, and Rockbound Lake (partial)

Johnston Canyon Lower & Upper Falls

Hiking Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: +/- 6 km

Type: Out and Back

Johnston Canyon is a great introduction to Banff because of its parking and walkability. I arrived early enough to snag a parking space in one of the two small lots directly at the trailhead. The road that winds and leads to Johnston Canyon does not permit parking, so early arrival (before 9 am) is crucial. Because of the mostly paved trail, this hike gets a TON of foot-to-foot traffic – be sure to set that alarm early so you can enjoy the steady incline without the crowd.

Meandering along a cliffside that starts out shallow and slowly works its way to steep heights, Johnston Canyon provides gorgeous views of amber canyon walls and tall evergreen trees. The gushing river below is crystal clear and fed by several waterfalls along the trail. There are many prime photo spots on this trail, especially once you reach the wall bridge: a narrow path carved along the border of a looming rock wall. While there are secure safety rails in place, this part of the trail may cause anxiety for those with a fear of heights.

The trail splits at certain points and I highly recommend letting your curiosity get the best of you because these “sidetracks” lead to some stunning falls, including one where you have to walk-crawl through a tunnel to reach.

While the path is smooth, the incline is steady and steep in certain areas. Give yourself ample time to explore and enjoy Johnston Canyon - there are plenty of resting spots with comfortable seating that provide the perfect view while you take a water or snack break. This hike is a low and slow moment that you will want to savor.

Inkpots via Johnston Canyon

Hiking Difficulty: Intermediate

Distance: 5.7 km

Type: Out and Back

The last stretch to the Upper Falls of Johnston Canyon may have you think twice about continuing to the Inkpots… just keep going.

The Inkpots trail starts right at the top of Johnston Canyon Upper Falls and will immediately put you in a different hiking mode. There are no paved paths, the inclines are steeper, and the dense colorful forest will serve as your view for a good portion of the trail. However, once you reach the point where you are surrounded by vast meadows and gray-blue ridges in the distance, you will slightly forget about the pain in your arches and shins.

The Inkpots are a must-do hike as much for the beauty as for the history. A protected space, the five jade-colored mineral springs are set snug within a fragrant valley; its still waters creating a glossy mirror reflection of the mountains and surrounding trees.

Inkpots is the perfect place to take off your pack and rest for a while. There is seating dotted around the milky-green pools and a babbling creek nearby flowing with ice cold glacier water. Be sure to take your time here. Enjoy lunch, rest your feet, or even meditate – everyone that passed through this trail while I was there grew immensely quite upon arrival, as if they knew they were entering a sacred space.

If you tag Inkpots onto Johnston Canyon, anticipate a full day. Both hikes took me approximately five hours.

Silverton Falls

Hiking Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 0.7 km

Type: In and Out

My body told me I was done after Johnston Canyon and the Inkpots, but I was too amazed by the beauty around me to call it quits my first day. If up for the challenge, just past Johnston Canyon and on your way back to the main road, there is a small parking lot that leads to two trailheads: Silverton Falls and Rockbound Lake.

Feeding from the same starting point, Silverton Falls takes you right and through a softly padded trail of spruce and pine trees. This is a very quick in-and-out trail with one sharp incline that leads you to a soaring and slender waterfall. The path is extremely narrow, not large enough for two lanes of foot traffic, and the highest point of the trail is not for the faint of heart. But it is an easy trek and peaceful resting point.

I made the decision last-minute when I descended from Silverton Falls to go explore the left side of the main trailhead: Rockbound Lake. Here is where things got tricky for me.

Rockbound Lake

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 18 km (distance achieved: +/- 4 km)

Type: Out and Back

As neither of these hikes were on my initial itinerary and it was winding down to the end of a long day, I made the (very stupid) decision to lighten my load at this trailhead and leave some things behind… including my bear spray.

Author’s Advice: If you are hiking in an area that is populated by bears, always carry your bear spray and any other necessary tools or devices that aid in deterring a bear and protecting yourself. As someone that prefers to hike during the Autumn season and in terrain known to be populated by bears, leaving my spray behind was not only foolish but incredibly dangerous. While I have never had to use bear spray, it is one of the first items I purchase when I reach my hiking destination. If you carry nothing else, please carry this and ensure you have it strapped on your body in a place where it can be quickly accessed.

Rockbound Lake was not on my radar, but what I hiked and later read about this trail has absolutely inspired me to tackle this hike again on my next visit to Banff. A soft dirt trail weaves and winds through a richly colored forest and you are mostly surrounded by the sounds of nature and your boots tread. Don’t anticipate seeing many other hikers on this trail due to its distance and difficulty level.

I was about 4 km in before I realized how much further I had to go and that I would be caught in the dark if I attempted the distance. It was with much regret that I turned around and began to make my way back through the sharp curves of the trail. While rounding a corner, I found myself suddenly freezing in place while a Black bear looked up and locked eyes with me. Standing right in the middle of the path and about 20 steps away, the bear stood its ground in silence waiting for my reaction.

My first thought was the realization that I left my bear spray behind. Second thought was that I was alone and hadn’t seen a single person on the trail since I started. Third thought was that this was a Black bear and I needed to act accordingly. So, backing up slowly and without taking my eyes off the bear, I began yelling “Bear! Bear! Bear!” at the top of my lungs to scare it off and alert anyone nearby. Thankfully, a group of hikers was making their way back down and heard my calls. Spotting the group, the bear quietly rambled off the path and into the woods without a backward glance.

While I didn’t get to reach nor see the spectacular beauty that is Rockbound Lake, I will forever remember this trail as the one where I experienced my first bear encounter AND learned a very valuable lesson.

Day #2: Moraine Lake Shoreline, Larch Valley, and Sentinel Pass

Moraine Lake Shoreline

Hiking Difficulty: Easy

Distance: 3 km

Type: Out and Back

You can’t visit Banff and not see the majesty of Lakes Moraine and Louise. While completely overrun with tourists, you can enjoy the magic of these lakes ALMOST by yourself by reserving early shuttle times. The popularity of both lakes has caused Moraine Lake to prohibit personal vehicles, so make your reservations far in advance for the very cheap shuttle that picks up and drops off at Lake Louise Ski Resort & Summer Gondola. The shuttle operates every 20-30 minutes so you can enjoy your time and not be restricted to a schedule. Tickets can be purchased here: https://rb.gy/i8c9u

I had the chance to witness Moraine Lake just after sunrise, when the water was at its most calm and the mountain peaks had a glowing halo from the rising rays. Never have I seen such a shade of blue water – almost cerulean and like glass. While the shoreline views offer a great perspective of the surrounding landscape and get you up close and personal with the frosty glacial waters, a trek up to the viewpoint will take your breath away (literally and figuratively).

If you have ever seen a picture of Moraine Lake, it was more than likely taken from this angle. While it is a steep and very rocky climb to the top, once there you have a full 360” view of the lake, the mountains, and plush valley below on the opposite side. Your money shot lives here, which is another reason to get up before sunrise and greet the morning at this lake.

Larch Valley

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 8.8 km

Type: Out and Back

Beginning off the Moraine Lake Shoreline is the Larch Valley trail, named after its abundance of Larch trees, which bloom a vivid gold color during the Autumn months. Imagine a Christmas tree with bright saffron needles. Now multiply that tree by thousands. That is Larch Valley.

One of the main reasons why Fall hiking is my favorite is because of the colors. Living in Florida, where the climate is tropical and everything is green, my soul often craves the tawny, the amber, the crimson, and the corals of my most favored season. So, it is no surprise that Larch Valley was a must on my list and one of two favorites on this trip.

The Larch Valley trail greets you with serious switchbacks, extensive inclines, and very few plateaus. You will heat up quickly on this trail and I recommend multiply breathable layers as opposed to an insulated jacket. Trekking poles will be your friend on this trail, especially if you are brave enough to continue at its end and tackle Sentinel Pass.

What it lacks in grace to your body, Larch Valley makes up for in views. There are scenes embedded in my mind from this trail, from the canopy of lemon-hued branches that glimmered in the sun to the field of moss and stone that was abruptly cut off by a wall of trees set ablaze in amber. Larch Valley is a special hike that will inspire your appreciation for nature and just how incredible mother earth is.

Once you reach the Valley of this trail, you will also experience your first break. This is the perfect part of the hike to slow down, enjoy a snack, and relish the beauty around you. Whether in the depths of the Valley or the meadow just past it dotted with large boulders perfect for sunbathing, this portion of the trail encourages relaxation, reflection, and refreshment.

Sentinel Pass Peak via Larch Valley

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 2.9 km

Type: Out and Back

After a much-needed break from Larch Valley, hydrate and break out your trekking poles to face off with Sentinel Pass. I debated on whether I would hike to this peak because of how daunting it looked. Staring up at the zig-zag path of rock and sand, I was transported back to Walter’s Wiggles at Angel’s Landing in Zion. With an elevation gain of over 8,000 ft and multiple switchbacks, this hike pushes you to the physical limits. And, while short, it will take a toll on your ankles, knees, and shins.

While the full distance of Sentinel Pass is 11.4 km, reaching the peak is quite an accomplishment and provides an expansive view of Paradise Valley, which makes you feel as if you are about to set foot on Mars with its craggily peaks and dusty terrain.

If hesitant about this hike, rest assured that you will be met with words of encouragement from fellow hikers making their way back down. Trust me when I say to believe what they say: that the view and climb are worth every step.

Once the elation of achievement filters out, settle yourself on one of the many smooth boulders and enjoy the scenery surrounding you. Face one side for views of monumental peaks in shades of gray and blue or face the other side for a bird-eye view of Larch Valley with its palette of citrus, sage, and pine.

All three hikes, with breaks, took me approximately 7.5 hours.

Day #3: Sleeping Buffalo Mountain (Tunnel Mountain), Agnes Lake Teahouse, and Little Beehive

Sleeping Buffalo Mountain

Hiking Difficulty: Moderate

Distance: 4.3 km

Type: Out and Back

The Stoney Nakoda First Nation people call it “Sleeping Buffalo Mountain” and believe that this mountain acts as a guardian over the many different types of special waters, special herbs, and medicines that grow in the area.

It was dubbed Tunnel Mountain because of earlier plans to drill a tunnel through its side for Canada’s first Transcontinental Highway, and the name stuck. Out of respect for and honor to the Indigenous people in Banff, I am going to refer to it as Sleeping Buffalo Mountain.

The Stoney Nakoda are the First Nations people most associated with Banff National Park. Unfortunately, they were removed from the mountain areas and restricted from hunting and gathering soon after the park was established in 1885. Known as Iyârhe, in their own language, which means “Peoples of the Mountains”, the Stoney Nakoda first roamed the lands of the eastern Rocky Mountains, which stretched from the edge of today’s Glacier National Park in Montana to the North Saskatchewan River and west to the Continental Divide.

Experiencing a sunrise hike on land considered sacred was incredibly powerful. I set out just before dusk in frigid silent air and felt immediately at peace on this trail. Starting right at the base of a main road, the path steadily winds upwards with several switchbacks on narrow paths. As you climb one side of the mountain, you gain stunning views of downtown Banff with its twinkling lights and lingering slumber. And once you reach the top of Sleeping Buffalo Mountain, your feet meet a plateau of flat stone and spruce trees.

There isn’t a bad seat on this mountaintop, but I opted to watch the sun come up on the eastern side, where the valley below is dotted with random structures and traced with a meandering river. The sun crested over the mountains and illuminated the eastern side in a soft yellow glow, while the western side’s sky erupted in a sorbet of blush, lavender, and coral.

It was the perfect way to start my last day in such a magical place and I highly recommend this as a sunrise hike.

Distance: Lake Agnes Teahouse via Lake Louise

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 7 km

Type: Out and Back

While personal parking isn’t prohibited at Lake Louise, there is only one small lot near Fairmont Lake Louise that is full by 9 am. Be sure to reserve and book the shuttle service at Parks Canada. Like Moraine Lake, this popular landmark gets crowded early, with tourists coming from all over the world to take a photograph in front of the bright aqua water or rent a canoe for a one-of-a-kind experience. I arrived around 10 am and there were already people strolling around the loop. Be sure to arrive early enough to capture your perfect shot and enjoy the quiet stillness of the water before the canoe docks open.

The Lake Agnes Teahouse Trail was my second favorite hike of this trip, with an endless supply of panoramic views and a resting spot with an abundance of history. Originally built in 1901 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Teahouse served as a refuge for hikers, and started serving tea in 1905. Although the log building was replaced in 1981, it still features the original windows, tables and chairs and is a MUST SEE on your visit to Banff.

The trailhead veers off the Lakeshore Trail around the Lake Louise and provides a mostly shaded trek through minor switchbacks and steep inclines. As the path winds along the mountainside, the bushy Larch trees provide pockets of space to marvel at the turquoise body of water below. The color of Lake Louise only gets more vivid as you climb higher; causing moments of complete awe when it peaks through the soaring tree branches.

About 3.6 km in, you will reach a heavily wooded area that borders Mirror Lake; a beautiful place to take a break and enjoy lunch. Set 250 meters above Lake Louise, Mirror Lake provides spectacular scenery that is perfectly reflected across its glossy surface. The inclines get steeper to the Teahouse from this point, so take your time to hydrate and rest your legs.

The Teahouse is right out of a storybook and complete with a tranquil waterfall, calm lake, and wraparound balcony. Don’t be deterred by the line of people waiting for a seat as the snacks and teas are fresh and delicious. Wi-Fi service is weak so bring cash and don’t forget to tip your servers, who live onsite and carry fresh food and supplies up and down the trail every couple of days.

I was lucky to get a seat on the balcony that faced towards Lake Louise and enjoyed a tart and warm blueberry crumble with a savory blueberry tea before sunbathing lakeside. The large boulders dotting the perimeter of Lake Agnes are ideal for a quick sun nap and get you away from the crowds.

As with most of the popular trails in Banff, the earlier the better to fully enjoy the peaceful beauty of this historic trail.

Distance: Little Beehive via Lake Agnes

Hiking Difficulty: Challenging

Distance: 9.1 km

Type: Out and Back

If you decide to keep exploring once you reach Lake Agnes, you will find yourself torn between Big Beehive, Little Beehive, and Plain of Six Glaciers (which also leads to a teahouse). Unfortunately, by this time, my body had begun to feel the exertion of the last three days, so I opted for Little Beehive… and wasn’t at all disappointed.

Little Beehive can be accessed at two points: the first right across from front of the teahouse and the second a little way in back through the Lake Agnes trail. I chose to double back and take the path that veered off from the main trail but they both merge at one point into a meandering cliffside route surrounded by wildflowers and Larch trees in bloom.

The inclines are steep on Little Beehive but it’s the expansive open views of Lake Louise and Devils Thumb that will really take your breath away. Brilliant halcyon trees spring up from mounds of wildflowers in scarlet, tangerine, and fuchsia, while steel gray bluffs plunge straight down into ice-blue water. Unlike the majority of the Lake Agnes Teahouse Trail, this hike completely exposes you to the striking colors set ablaze by the open sky.

Reaching the peak of Little Beehive is pure magic. A plateau of flattened rocks and giant boulders spread before you and provide the most magnificent bird-eye view of Lake Louise. If brave enough to stand close to the edge and hiking on a sunny day, you will be rewarded with a Lake a shade of blue like you’ve never imagined. Take time exploring the crest of Little Beehive before gearing up for a very long, but worthwhile, hike to the base of Lake Louise.

Banff far exceeded anything I had imagined in my mind. For years, I have looked at pictures and videos, read blogs and posts, and counted down the days until I would set foot in one of the most marvelous natural spaces I have ever seen.

Every hiking trip gifts me something. A moment. A memory. A recollection I can come back to and be filled with utter joy. Banff was the first hiking trip where I truly struggled with wanting to come home… because it felt like home. Each trail granted me peace, closure, and clarity. It was a trip I needed as much as I wanted, and I look forward to the day I can go back and experience the countless other adventures that Banff has to offer – from the hot springs to the suspension bridges.

Until next time, Canada.